In May 2015, I embarked on an unforgettable adventure to China, immersing myself in the contrasting wonders of…
That First Bite at Myeongdong Changed Everything
The smell hit me first. Not unpleasant—just overwhelming. Grilled meat, fermented kimchi, sesame oil, and something sweet bubbling in a massive pot. I was standing in the middle of Myeongdong Street Market at 9 PM on a Friday, surrounded by neon signs, crowds of locals and tourists, and more street food stalls than I could process in one night.
A vendor without hesitation pressed a skewer of grilled scallop (hoktgae) into my hand. I paid about 5,000 KRW ($3.50 USD / €3.20 EUR) for it. One bite and I understood why people come here. The scallop was butter-soft, smoky from the charcoal, seasoned with just salt and a drizzle of this addictive gochujang-mayo sauce.
This is Seoul in a nutshell: chaotic, generous, and way better than the photos.
Where the Real Street Food Actually Is
The Markets Worth Your Time (and Stomach)
- Myeongdong Street Market — Tourist-heavy but genuinely good. Go after 8 PM when locals show up. Best for: hotteok (sweet pancakes), tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes), grilled seafood.
- Gwangjang Market — This is the real deal. Less Instagram-friendly, way more authentic. I had the best bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes) here for 3,000 KRW ($2 USD / €1.80 EUR). Older vendors, younger crowds, zero pretense.
- Namdaemun Market — Massive, maze-like, slightly chaotic. Go hungry because you’ll want to try everything. Pro tip: bring cash. Many stalls don’t take cards.
What You Actually Need to Order
Skip the tourist guides telling you to hunt for “hidden specialties.” Here’s what I ate repeatedly because it was legitimately incredible:
- Hotteok (sweet red bean pancake) — 4,000-5,000 KRW ($2.80-3.50 USD). Crispy outside, molten inside. Get it fresh off the griddle.
- Tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes in red sauce) — 5,000 KRW ($3.50 USD). Sounds simple. It’s not. The sauce is the star—some places add cream, some add cheese, some keep it traditional. Try three different stalls and pick your favorite.
- Gyeran Mari (rolled egg) — 8,000 KRW ($5.50 USD). A vendor at Gwangjang made these fresh to order. Better than it sounds.
- Mandu (dumplings) — 5,000-7,000 KRW ($3.50-5 USD). Get them fried, not boiled. Trust me.
Honestly? The $20 street food crawl is one of the best meals you’ll have in Seoul. Budget accordingly.
Temple Stays: What Sleeping in a Buddhist Monastery Actually Feels Like
I booked a two-night temple stay at Jogyesa Temple in the Jongno-gu district expecting silence and meditation. What I got was a 4:30 AM wake-up bell, 12 hours of Korean Buddhist rituals I couldn’t understand, and somehow—inexplicably—the best sleep I’d had in months.
The Honest Experience
Day one: I arrived at 2 PM. A monk (who spoke impeccable English, thankfully) showed me to a tiny, immaculate room with a heated floor, one thin mattress, and absolutely no amenities except a tiny sink. There was a schedule taped to the door. Dinner was at 5 PM. Mandatory. In silence.
The food was vegetarian, simple, and served in this meditative bowl-and-spoon ritual I’d never seen before. I messed it up twice. Nobody cared. We ate. We cleaned our bowls. We left.
Evening ceremony started at 7 PM. Chanting in Korean, incense so thick you could taste it, about 50 monks and a handful of foreign tourists sitting cross-legged on the floor. My legs cramped after 20 minutes. I didn’t move because it felt wrong.
By 9 PM I was asleep. By 4:30 AM the bells had me awake again for morning ceremony. This repeated for two days. By day two I wasn’t checking my phone anymore.
Is It Worth It? (Honest Answer)
Yes, but not for the reason you think. You don’t leave enlightened. You leave quiet. And in Seoul—with its subway crowds, neon chaos, and constant noise—that’s actually precious.
Cost breakdown: Around 80,000 KRW ($55-60 USD / €50-55 EUR) per night, including two meals. Book through templestay.com—it’s the official program and way easier than showing up and hoping.
- Most temples offer 1, 2, or 3-night stays
- Bring comfortable clothes you can sit cross-legged in
- No phones during ceremonies (they’ll ask you to put it away)
- Vegetarian only — no exceptions
Getting There & Getting Around
Transport
- Incheon Airport to City: Airport Rail Link (A’REX) takes 43 minutes to Seoul Station. 9,000 KRW ($6 USD / €5.50 EUR).
- Getting Around: Get a T-money card at any convenience store (2,500 KRW deposit). Bus and subway rides cost 1,250-2,450 KRW ($0.85-1.70 USD) depending on distance. The app Naver Map is indispensable—better than Google here.
Where to Stay
- Budget: K-Guesthouse Myeongdong — 40,000-50,000 KRW ($28-35 USD / €25-32 EUR) per night. Clean, central, zero frills.
- Mid-Range: The Shilla Stay Dongdaemun — 120,000-150,000 KRW ($85-105 USD / €78-96 EUR). Modern, great location, good breakfast.
- Luxury: Park Hyatt Seoul — 300,000+ KRW ($210+ USD / €195+ EUR). If you’re splurging, this is where. Pool, views, rooftop bar overlooking the city.
What I’d Do Differently Next Time
- Skip Myeongdong on weekends. It’s mobbed. Go Tuesday-Thursday evenings instead.
- Do the temple stay earlier in your trip. I did it on day 5 and it was perfect timing, but doing it earlier would’ve been less jarring coming from the chaos.
- Learn “thank you” and “spicy” in Korean. Just these two words changed how vendors treated me. Kamsahamnida and Mae-un. Use them.
- Bring a translation app. Not everyone speaks English at street stalls. Google Translate’s camera function saved me multiple times.
The Bottom Line
Seoul’s street food scene is legitimately world-class and costs almost nothing. The temple stays are real, slightly uncomfortable, and oddly transformative. Together, they show you two completely different sides of the city—the frenetic present and the quiet past.
This is best for: travelers who want authentic experiences without pretension. People who eat street food for the story and the taste, not the Instagram. Anyone who needs to unplug for 48 hours and isn’t afraid to sit in silence.
Budget: $100-150 USD ($90-140 EUR) per day for food, transport, and a budget-mid guesthouse. Temple stays are a separate splurge, but worth every won.
Travel Essentials
Here are a few things I always pack for trips like this:
- Universal Travel Adapter — Check price on Amazon
- Portable Power Bank — Check price on Amazon
- Compact Travel Camera — Check price on Amazon